Reprinted with permission
Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry
P.O Box 265
Glen Oaks, NY 11004
and the author
Vintage, Vol. 15,
From a 1974 color ad: Explosive
hand painted enamels, objects díart to wear. Designs inspired by the great
|I was recently asked if I could
share some information about the enamel jewelry done by the Eisenberg Company.
For some reason, the costume jewelry books have almost ignored this style of
In 1973, and again in 1974, the
company showed full color ads of their "Artistís Series". These have
no rhinestones, but feature geometric and abstract designs in enamel. According
to Harrice Millerís books (especially her second edition) some of the artists
providing inspiration were: Braque, Miro, Chargill, Calder, Vesarely, Picasso
Sometimes this jewelry was made
in sets including bracelets, pendants, pins, earrings, and rings. The color
combinations were blue, turquoise, and green, also tan, orange, and brown, plus
other variations. Some are solid brick red with black lines; others look as if
the painted design was an oriental word. The enamel completely covered the
metal. One of the ads states that it was baked 27 times! One color combination
was an old rose, brick red, and bright red-highlighted with gold.
There are also
more figural designs such as birds, a frog, a vase of flowers, lily pads, a
fish, owls etc. Mostly done in goldtone metal, the mark on all of these pieces
is the single word "Eisenberg" stamped on the back. In the 1980s there
were some very attractive designs which combined enamel and crystal rhinestones.
There were some especially nice figural pins from that period, and I have fish,
butterflies, and a pheasant.
In this group I have considered
only those pieces that are mostly enamel-not ones that have most of the metal
showing, with touches of enamel to highlight the design, for example, the King
Tut pendant, and, in 1998, some lovely figural pins were made in that style-the
giraffe is especially attractive.
The old Eisenberg Original
figural pins that used enamel as part of the designs are in a class by
|| That enamel was mostly translucent, and allowed the metal to glow
through. The later enameled Eisenberg
pieces do not seem to have attracted many collectors, although there are some,
of course. There may be some examples shown in books that I have missed, but the
only ones that I am aware of are Harrice Millerís, Marcia Brownís Volume 1
(two sets), and Fred Rezezadehís (his book shows one).
Want to learn more about
Eisenberg or other names in vintage fashion and costume jewelry,
feel free to continue your search here....