Reprinted with permission from 
Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry
P.O Box 265
Glen Oaks, NY 11004
VCFJ@aol.com
and the author

EISENBERG ENAMEL

Vintage, Vol. 15, No.1, 2005

By Bobye Syverson

From a 1974 color ad: Explosive hand painted enamels, objects díart to wear. Designs inspired by the great Surrealis artists."

I was recently asked if I could share some information about the enamel jewelry done by the Eisenberg Company. For some reason, the costume jewelry books have almost ignored this style of their jewelry.

In 1973, and again in 1974, the company showed full color ads of their "Artistís Series". These have no rhinestones, but feature geometric and abstract designs in enamel. According to Harrice Millerís books (especially her second edition) some of the artists providing inspiration were: Braque, Miro, Chargill, Calder, Vesarely, Picasso and Pucci.

Sometimes this jewelry was made in sets including bracelets, pendants, pins, earrings, and rings. The color combinations were blue, turquoise, and green, also tan, orange, and brown, plus other variations. Some are solid brick red with black lines; others look as if the painted design was an oriental word. The enamel completely covered the metal. One of the ads states that it was baked 27 times! One color combination was an old rose, brick red, and bright red-highlighted with gold.

There are also more figural designs such as birds, a frog, a vase of flowers, lily pads, a fish, owls etc. Mostly done in goldtone metal, the mark on all of these pieces is the single word "Eisenberg" stamped on the back. In the 1980s there were some very attractive designs which combined enamel and crystal rhinestones. There were some especially nice figural pins from that period, and I have fish, butterflies, and a pheasant.

In this group I have considered only those pieces that are mostly enamel-not ones that have most of the metal showing, with touches of enamel to highlight the design, for example, the King Tut pendant, and, in 1998, some lovely figural pins were made in that style-the giraffe is especially attractive.
The old Eisenberg Original figural pins that used enamel as part of the designs are in a class by themselves. 

Picasso inspired whimsical brooch by Eisenberg.

That enamel was mostly translucent, and allowed the metal to glow through. The later enameled Eisenberg pieces do not seem to have attracted many collectors, although there are some, of course. There may be some examples shown in books that I have missed, but the only ones that I am aware of are Harrice Millerís, Marcia Brownís Volume 1 (two sets), and Fred Rezezadehís (his book shows one).

Round mutli-colored enamel pendant by Eisnberg.

 

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