Costume Jewelry in the 1940’s |
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Coming out of the Depression
and into the economy of a world at war, women found themselves called to work
outside the home in large numbers...more than ever before. Rosie the Riveter
couldn’t dress like Blanche DuBois. Gone were the bias cut luxe fabrics of the
30s. Material was rationed, hence a slimmer, more practical style ensued. Pants
and suits were necessary for the lives of working women. Jewelry took a similar
turn. Gone were the heavy rhinestone-paved pieces of the Deco years. The stones
came from Europe in the firs place, therefore being at war stopped the
importation of the stones altogether. Manufacturers found they had to use
inventory on hand. Design of the pieces produced were softer, almost flowery and
romantic, with just a few stones. Sterling could not be plated with rhodium
because it was being used for production in ammunition, so gold was used as the
plating agent. One can almost pinpoint the period from this style of gold plated
sterling pieces created. Add cabochons of Lucite and the Jelly Belly is created.
Brooches were large, yet restrained design wise. Also used were whimsical pieces
of carved Bakelite. "Sweetheart jewelry", military motifs with heart-shaped styling, became popular with servicemen for their loved ones. Hearts, lockets, wings, etc. appeared rapidly in a variety of materials by most of the jewelry manufacturers. |
Forms of jewelry included bangle, link and charm bracelets, brooches, dress and fur clips. A unique introduction was the double clip brooch or duette clip. There were chatelaine pins, cuff links, clip and screw back earrings, large figural brooches and the infamous Jelly Bellies. By this time, too, were rhinestone encrusted hair ornaments, pipes, cigarette holders, lighters, cigarette cases, purses, shows and clothing.
Stars of the silver screen loomed large in the lifestyles of this era. We watched closely as they appeared adorned with the most outrageous costume jewelry possible.
Costume jewelry buffs seem to also be old movie fans as we devoured "flicks," avidly searching for that pin or this necklace. Marketing mavens realized early the potential of this allure. Magazines were full of movie stars touting this or that product...wearing the latest in glorious jewelry. Of particular note in this arena is Joseff of Hollywood who created then leased his jewelry to major motion picture studios. Demand was so great for his pieces that he acquiesced and created a line for retail sale.
This was the heyday of costume jewelry production. In America there were 929 companies actively creating jewelry. We loved it!
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