ART NOUVEAU JEWELRY
|
|
A coincidental wave alongside Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau took elegant stylization to the female form, with graceful, flowing, curvaceous, nature redone. This was a sensuous era with female faces, insects, flowers. Also featured were draped and nude female figures.
Art Nouveau used many of the same materials and gemstones as did the Arts and Crafters, but their effect was much more intimate. The colors tended to be rich and warm. The designers were not so quick to abandon the advanced processes of the Industrial Revolution. Many of the pieces produced were done so in mass quantities. Brass stampings of the same design were used interchangeably for pins, necklaces, brooches, earrings, vanity mirror frames, purse frames and buttons.
ART
DECO
|
|
|
|
Those 20s ladies continued to shock everyone. But now the "flappers" were lopping off their glowing locks of hair, wearing skirts above their knees and in 1920 secured the right to vote! Change the woman, change the jewelry. Coco Chanel introduced the "little black dress" and was the first couturier to show ropes of rhinestones draped on her runway models...quite a statement indeed. Shortly, you could order similar looks from the Sears catalog. King Tut’s tomb was discovered in 1922 and the Egyptian craze raged again. 1925 heralded the Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Indtustriels Modernes in Paris and the term "Art Deco" was coined and bandied about to describe anything with a sleek, modern, geometric design. It is still in use today. Art Deco influenced everything. The jewelry reflected this clean simplified and stylized design. Stepped and zigzag motifs blended with Egyptian and Oriental motifs. Rhinestones were everywhere! Pavé set stones in mostly white metal led the fray. Pavé means paved in French. The stones were set very close together with little metal showing. Carved gemstones also were popular. |
Earrings were no longer pierced (considered to be vulgar at this time) but of the screw back type. Bracelets were straight, flexible, link and charm. Necklaces continued to be either very long or very short. There were few of medium length. Colors included black alongside another color.
Materials included marcasites (20s diamonds), jade, chalcedony, chrysoprase, chrome and rhodium plated metal, celluloid and Bakelite, glass and white pot metals. Brass that was gold or silver plated brass, sterling, wood, seeds, string, leather and other natural materials.
The Depression in America during the early part of the 1930s led to much jewelry production of the novelty and inexpensive type. Humor and whimsy led the way. Diametrically opposed to this costume jewelry were pieces being designed by fine jewelers, but in non-precious metals. 1928 Schiaparelli opened her shop in Paris. In 1931 William Spratling was in Mexico creating masterpieces in silver all over the Taxo region.
| Costume Jewelry Photo Gallery |
|