A new monarch heralds a new age-actually his spouse led the fashion with enormous vanity and love for bedecking herself with jewels. In the court’s favor were diamonds, platinum, pearls and a style quite different from the heaviness of the preceding eras. Lacy, openwork with dangles and garlands. White metals were preferred. Tiaras were in vogue, along with dog collar necklaces and dangling earrings.

While platinum was desired, it was proclaimed a "strategic metal" during WWI and its use in jewelry was diminished. A formula for 18 kt white gold was introduced by David Belais as "18k Belais." Both pot metal and sterling were plated with rhodium to create the look of platinum. Synthetic sapphires patented 1911. Theda Bara plays Cleopatra in a silent film version, and many ladies decided the Egyptian slave look was for them. Bohemia, Moravia and Slovakia became the Republic of Czechoslovakia. The Czechs became known for marvelous faux gemstone glass pieces. Brass stamped settings held the stones in with prongs and were well marked. A prong setting is sometimes referred to as Edwardian diamond setting.

1911 sliding lock clasp was patented-bye bye to the "C" hook.