ARTS AND CRAFTS
1890-1920

Considered a rebellion to the Industrial Revolution, the Arts and Crafts movement featured handmade jewelry, with hammered, patinated and acid-etched metals, with nature themes in clean stylized designs. Society was moving faster and the artisans favored the slower pace to create graceful pieces.

The materials for this jewelry were bronze, brass, silver, copper, amber, enamels and glass. Blister and freshwater pearls were preferred for their non-uniform shapes. Gemstones and glass were cut en cabochon. Stones of choice included turquoise, moonstones and opals.

The women of this era were becoming restless also. The urge to secure voting rights led to secret languages of color. Suffragettes wore green, white and violet ("give women the vote") huses on their clothing and in their jewelry. New jewelry styles included "paper clip" chains, organic designs in pendants, rings, watch fobs and sash ornaments.

Favored, too, were stickpins, festoon necklaces and cloak clasps.

Georg Jensen opened shop in Copenhagen. Cartier opened in New York.

1906 Sterling standard established in US National stamping act required marking of gold and silver content.

1908 Paul Poiret introduces dresses without corsets and with a vertical line at this "Boutique Chichi."

1909 Bakelite patented.

1914 Titanic sinks.

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