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VICTORIAN ERA JEWELRY
1840-1890 |

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The Victorian era was
appropriately name after Queen Victoria. Her wedding to Albert n 1840 and her
continuing reign led to a profusion of jewelry fanatics.
Queen Victoria loved jewelry
and soon her fellow countrymen were as enamored of it as she was. Following
Albert’s death in 1861, she continued to wear jewelry. Known as mourning
jewelry, Queen Victoria wore it in tribute to her deceased husband. The pieces
were black and made of various types of materials: gutta percha, vulcanite, bog
oak, ebonite and black glass.
After a lengthy period of
mourning, the dark cloud was lifted and there was a period of great
sentimentality. Women were wearing heavily
corseted, multi-layered garments. Hair was long and usually worn piled atop the
head, topped by huge hats.
Jewelry took the form of chatelaines, hair ornaments,
lockets, pierced earrings, watch chains with fobs and seals, cameos, book chain
style necklaces, hatpins, lavalieres, lace and lingerie pins, bangles, cufflinks
and stud buttons. There were many motifs characteristic of this time: flowers,
snakes, crescents, lizards, birds, Celtic designs, Japanese designs, horseshoes
and acrostics. Acrostics are quite unique. A Victorian filigree diamond ring
today is a much sought after piece. |
The first letter of each stone
spelled a word when put together. REGARD was such an example. There was a wide
variety of materials used in the jewelry: turquoise, coral, pearls, agate,
tortoiseshell, cut steel, sterling, gold and various grades of gold, jet, French
jet (black glass), lava, onyx and paste, low carat gold markings (9 carat) and
gun metal "blackened steel." Jewelry had a "stamped,"
machine made look and feel. The Industrial Revolution took jewelry production
from the aristocracy to the masses. Electroplating became a patented, commercial
endeavor. Large scale jewelry manufacturing also began in the US. Permanently
foiled stones (rhinestones) process refined. Rolled gold plating introduced.
1850 tube catch
patented.
1852 Aluminum first displayed
(very rare in jewelry!)
1868 Celluloid invented.
1894 Screw back earring
patented.
1895 Mass production of Swiss
watches.
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