VICTORIAN ERA JEWELRY 
1840-1890

Beautiful double heart, stone set brooch

 

The Victorian era was appropriately name after Queen Victoria. Her wedding to Albert n 1840 and her continuing reign led to a profusion of jewelry fanatics.

Queen Victoria loved jewelry and soon her fellow countrymen were as enamored of it as she was. Following Albert’s death in 1861, she continued to wear jewelry. Known as mourning jewelry, Queen Victoria wore it in tribute to her deceased husband. The pieces were black and made of various types of materials: gutta percha, vulcanite, bog oak, ebonite and black glass.

After a lengthy period of mourning, the dark cloud was lifted and there was a period of great sentimentality. Women were wearing heavily corseted, multi-layered garments. Hair was long and usually worn piled atop the head, topped by huge hats.

Jewelry took the form of chatelaines, hair ornaments, lockets, pierced earrings, watch chains with fobs and seals, cameos, book chain style necklaces, hatpins, lavalieres, lace and lingerie pins, bangles, cufflinks and stud buttons. There were many motifs characteristic of this time: flowers, snakes, crescents, lizards, birds, Celtic designs, Japanese designs, horseshoes and acrostics. Acrostics are quite unique. A Victorian filigree diamond ring today is a much sought after piece.

The first letter of each stone spelled a word when put together. REGARD was such an example. There was a wide variety of materials used in the jewelry: turquoise, coral, pearls, agate, tortoiseshell, cut steel, sterling, gold and various grades of gold, jet, French jet (black glass), lava, onyx and paste, low carat gold markings (9 carat) and gun metal "blackened steel." Jewelry had a "stamped," machine made look and feel. The Industrial Revolution took jewelry production from the aristocracy to the masses. Electroplating became a patented, commercial endeavor. Large scale jewelry manufacturing also began in the US. Permanently foiled stones (rhinestones) process refined. Rolled gold plating introduced.

1850 tube catch patented.

1852 Aluminum first displayed (very rare in jewelry!)

1868 Celluloid invented.

1894 Screw back earring patented.

1895 Mass production of Swiss watches.

 

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